June 2023

A road trip across Kumaon Himalayas

Delhi – Nainital – Ranikhet – Kasauni – Binsar – Nainital – Delhi.

Contrary to common practice summer’s the worst time in the hills. A fierce sun, sky rocketing prices, mad summer rush. One absolutely must avoid the big four at least – Simla, Nainital, Manali, Mussourie – Several others too. Don’t let anyone convince you otherwise.

Driving into Nainital cops stop to question wanting to know whether or not one has reservations. Only then are you allowed to proceed. Parking’s another problem, visitors coaxed into hiring a taxi onwards. Chaos supreme. No walking space either, neither on the Mall, Bara Bazaar or Bhutia market.

Natures allure can never be denied. It made us plunge into jostling crowds for a stroll around the lake & temple. I went hunting for ‘yantras’ ( use them as bookmarks ) Handmade, ‘mantras’ are chiseled on to little square pieces of ‘ashtadhatu’ (an alloy of 8 metals) with a 24 carat gold finish. I bought 3, with the ‘Gayatri’ ‘Guru’ & ‘Navagraha’ mantras. Delighted, I rendezvous with friends for a pint at the Boat Club. It is an oasis of serenity with marvellous vistas. A ‘Kumaon – Thali’ is also on the cards. Where else but ‘Anupams’. So off we go, into the crowds again.

There’s never a respite from crammed roads & surging crowds, getting out of Nainital as painful as getting in. The 2 hour drive to Ranikhet takes much longer because of ‘Kainchi Babas’ sthan on the way. Long gone, Baba from his heavenly abode reigns supreme over Uttarakhand’s devout, his popularity soaring after visits by VIPS, cricketers, politicians. Virat Kohli & Anushka among them.

Ranikhet Cantonment is tranquil, pristine & slow paced. Dense forests of oak, rhododendron, pine, fir & deodar cover hillsides filled with birdsong & the piercing cry of Cicadas. A haven of peace & quiet we spend time reading, relaxing, walking, things one likes doing on holiday. Also visiting the Jhuladevi temple & apple orchards nearby. A drive up to Chaubatia to watch the sun go down not to be missed.

Ranikhet to Kasauni is another 2 hours. It’s a scenic drive with plenty of nasty hairpin bends. Ridge lines soar, merge, crisscross & descend to low lying valleys filled with the sweet scent of Pine. A famous person – Mahatma Gandhi, no less – compared it to Switzerland. I wouldn’t go that far but Kasauni does offer magnificent, 360 degree, panoramic views of the Himalayas. Peak to peak, stretching from Kamet in the west to the Panchchulis in the east, Trishul & Nandadevi towering in the centre.

Playing rogue several times GPS we discovered was not entirely dependable, taking us on to bad country roads only to reach dead ends, our destination receding further and further. Travelling from Kasauni to Binsar, it played truant again. Frustrating to say the least, we laboured on regardless swearing never to trust it completely. The blessing in disguise was encountering ‘sights’ – entirely by default. Excruciating rural poverty for one. Women carrying unimaginable loads, everything from fodder to firewood to water. Fruits available aplenty but plainly out of reach for those who grow them.

The Kumaon Mandal Guest house is within the precincts of the Binsar Bird sanctuary. Time has stood still, with everything almost the way it was three decades ago. The entry fee’s steep. Electric power limited to just two hours in the evening. No running hot water consequently. This at an altitude of 7000’+. Nor wifi either, except in the tiny area around the reception. One takes it good naturedly in stride. Anything to be one with the universe, the pleasure of co – existing with birds & trees.

It’s the 10 km stretch from the gate of the sanctuary to the residential area that galls. Broken down & pot holed, the road is worse than bad.

One wonders at the non – use of solar energy too. In today’s time & age. But who’s asking or answering. Ideally located within the sanctuary KMVN remains the best bet.

Verdant forests, pleasant walks, bracing mountain air.

Blue skies, starry nights – everyday except when raining.

When was the last time YOU saw the Milky Way?