Where do I belong? A frequently asked question best left unanswered.

The world’s my home & life takes me places. Every place my own.

Geographical names invariably trigger the wanderlust. Mountains, rivers, streams. Coastlines, above all. The Coromandel, Konkan, Malabar. Fascinating places, lyrical names. How can adrenalin not flow?

Malabar’s the latest bee in my bonnet. It’s where I absolutely must go. No sooner said when a zillion ‘why’s??’ hit back.

“Go to Goa instead.”

“No” I answer.

“Why not? It’s so happening”

“That’s precisely why.”

Others who’ve never heard of Kannur, coo –

‘Coonoor, up in the Nilgiris. Wow !’

Kannur, Malabar, North Kerala, India. I’d considered making it a base for trips to Wayanad, Kozhikode, Mallapuram & Kasaragod. Each within 100 – 150 kilometre radius. Plans made followed by calls soliciting tips from someone who ‘belongs’ there.

I am offered a place to stay. A bungalow, driver and car. The latter’s welcome but it’s a strict ‘No’ to accommodation for I have set my heart upon a place by the sea. A village homestay on a lagoon.

A tranquil seaside town Kannur has the finest beaches. The Drive In Beach it’s trophy. The only one of its kind in India, the largest in Asia. Loved zooming across it.

The heritage home, 50 metres from the beach had two other wanderers. After morning swim & breakfast the hot day kept us indoor, each of us keeping largely to ourselves. I’d spend the day reading – writing while Antonette sketched the outdoors & Anna worked on her podcast. Antonette has been coming here these last seventeen years & is on first name terms with everyone including the village goldsmith.

Malabars’ cuisine is it’s hot selling point. Delicious home cooked food everyday. Restaurants serve a ‘Kerala Thali’ that has a large variety, the main dish fish based of course. We ended up having Pomfret fried, golden Prawns, Tuna for lunch & Mackerel – Squid at dinner. All in a day.

Come evening & there’s a knock at the door. Antonette & Anna wanting to know if I’d like a drink. Out come the bottles, a clink of glasses & friendly exchanges. Coming from the ends of the earth there’s much to be said & heard.

The Fort & Arrakal museum are both must – sees. It is the temples that surprise. Not a temple goer I manage three nevertheless – Annapurna, Karthike & Raja Rajeshwar – and have to say there’s something special about each of them. A certain feeling & vibe that touches the core, more than the better known ones elsewhere. These lost in antiquity temples built around little ponds & peepul trees had a strange effect. Hindu temples I’m told were never meant to be places of worship alone. It is where one goes to recharge & contemplate. To energise & revive before starting out for the day.

Temples have long been repositories of traditional dance. Peculiar to north Kerala, ‘Theyyam’ can best be described as dance, ritual, tradition, culture & art, all rolled into one. The season begins around October carrying into March. Performed by tribal & lower caste males, the devout – Brahmins among them – seek their blessings & guidance. Theyyam dancers are looked upon as Living Gods. A kind of social order defiance that comes naturally to Kerala.

150 kilometres from Kannur, Wayanad is 80% forest. With the Kabini flowing languidly by, it has natural beauty, wild life, spice gardens, plantations & upscale cottages & homes. A smooth drive up to a mountain plateau, it was amusing to see large Messi cut outs all along the way. A soccer crazy world after all.

Far from the madding crowd ‘The Spice Trail’s a 15 acre plantation growing coconut & rubber along with every spice imaginable. Bird watchers delight, a natural stream runs through the property crisscrossing its many trails & walks. Family owned, the spice garden is beleaguered with acute labour shortage, a consequence of the young & able shunning farm work in pursuit of Gulf dreams, even if it means earning a pittance.

Santosh & Sheeba’s rice fields lie barren therefore. They’ve had to give up animal husbandry too & taken to letting out rooms to supplement income. The silver lining being the opening of minds & widening horizons for their two little girls who’ve benefited from interaction with travellers from around the world. Santosh’s eldest, his pride, now studying to become an archeologist.

Known as the land of lore & looms, north Kerala is blessed with natures’ bounty. A land of abundance & plenty, gone are the literate & semi literate beggars of yore. Gone too the topless old women & long – skirted girls.

There is longevity as before. The big difference – erudite old men bemoaning the direction the country is going.

“It’s not what we strived for”

Dreams die first. More’s the pity.